Rtings

Hey all, just bought my first big tv purchase in many years after deliberating between the 90K or a 65" x95k for the same price. I moved into a space with large 19' ceilings and a similar sized 18' x 5' window in the living room so OLED isn't really an option. The TV was delivered yesterday and I set it up following RTINGS calibration settings and put on Top Gun Maverick to test it out.
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Was somewhat expecting to be blown away by the picture and I'm rather underwhelmed. Blacks looked relatively gray and the whole screen just seems dim or dimmer than it should, like a grey filter is on everything. No pop of color even after trying it turned up, messing with black level, the auto contrast settings, luminance etc. The living room is quite bright but I had my girlfriends tv over for the last month which is a cheap Phillips 65" from walmart, and I have to say I think it looks better.
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I bought the tv to also be used for gaming, hooked up to my PC and while it does look crisp, sharp etc it too just has me "whelmed". SDR looks OK and HDR just plain isnt vivid but I have never had good luck with windows HDR actually looking better. I plan on tinkering for a few days and trying some different things out but for what I paid (~$2,400 CAD) I'm curious if there is a setting I maybe missed somewhere or something? Brightness seems to max at 50 if I remember correct, did I maybe mess up and leave the power mode in Eco? I'm currently at work so I can't check right now, but just looking for suggestions or ideas.
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Thanks in advance!

https://www.rtings.com/monitoreviews/innocn/27m2v
Full review was just posted. Currently the 27M2V (160Hz, make sure its not the 27M2U 60Hz version) is out of stock on Amazon.
It's awesome that we have tech journalists who actually purchase and review their own units. As a reminder they do accept subscriptions ($10 a month) for people who want to sponsor their work.

I like to turn my monitor to the lowest possible brightness at night, I currently have the 259qn, which on the lowest brightness is still pretty bright.
rtings review shows the 27aqn is even brighter than the 25 at its lowest setting which is what is stopping me from upgrading. If anyone who has the 27 can test to see if ULMB 2 allows you to get an even dimmer display than previously possible?
tldr: does the ulmb 2 update allow you to get an even dimmer screen on the 27aqn?

As per title.
Purpose: cinematic single-player gaming; office work (text; scanned documents).
The room is often dim but never dark. Sometimes there's much sunlight.
60Hz is okay, as long as motion handling is good for that range. For example, BenQ EW3270U would be okay (it won't go beyond 60Hz, but at 60 it performs better than most >100 monitors, according to Rtings, which gives it 7.9, where >100 monitors often fall below 7).
For IPS, I'd like to avoid low contrast (low = <1000) or bad IPS glow.
For VA, I'd like to avoid dark smearing or bad VA glow or slowness.
In all cases, I'm desperate to avoid bad pixels and uniformity issues (like a >10% luminance difference between top and bottom resulting in a single-coloured background looking like a gradient).
Semi-decent HDR would be a bonus (e.g. where the effect isn't spectacular but is still better than nothing / not detrimental like on some budget monitors).
The alternative is M32Q used with DLDSR or, reluctantly, going down to 28'' for M28U (M32U is disproportionately expensive here) or just about any decent < €300 28'' 4K IPS or VA, such as Philips 288.
Considered OLED but didn't want to bump the budget up that high. Qantum Dot maybe?

Hi.
I see some problems out there. rtings has power problems that doesn't let them switch on again TV. I am one of the affected by game mode bootloop with red pixel. Tomorrow I'm going to get my replacement and I don't care about quality, I want to know the way to make TV lasting as much as posible. Of course no game mode, but, using only 60Hz could help?
I see no info about rtings problem, is there any way to get this TV safe from power issues?
Thanks!

I have been on a gaming laptop with a 970m and i7 for 8 years, I now wish to upgrade.
If there is a TV that is 90% as good as the Samsung QN90B QLED but 60% of the price, I'm definitely interested. If I am wrong in my belief that I -need- 24gb of RAM and could in fact get away with a 16gb card for 70% of the price, I'm definitely interested.

1. What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games (ex: resolution, FPS, settings) or programs you will be using.

I would like to run stable diffusion, do video editing, and play newer games on high settings.

2. What is your maximum PRE-TAX budget before rebates and shipping?

5,000 - including the TV/monitor.

3. When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

This week.

4. What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ex: toweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

Tower, OS, monitor.
I have keyboard, mouse, headphones.

5. If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? How old are they? Brands and models are appreciated.

I will continue to use my keyboard, mouse, and headphones.

6. Will you be overclocking (ex: CPU/GPU/RAM)? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line?

Only if it's easy and safe.

7. Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, Wi-Fi/Bluetooth, VR, VirtualLink, tensor cores, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)

NVIDIA RTX GPU with 24gb RAM (it seems to be consistently stated that it's worth it). There doesn't really seem to be any options. The 3090 24gb is inexplicably more expensive than the 4090 24gb... So that means, afaik, that I should be buying a MSI 4090 24GB ? Is there a better option?
And then, I'm really tired of having a bad display. I've done a fair amount of reading and believe that I do not want OLED, as even though it's pretty I will be using the display as a monitor and will definitely get burn in. With that in mind, and that I'm currently using a Seiki LC-40G81, - it looks like I'll be spending 1,300 for the 43" or 1,500 for the 50" Samsung QN90B QLED (I don't really know if I would want a 50" TV, 43" is already going to be bigger, anyone have any suggestions on how to decide if I want 43" vs 50" for a $200 difference?) (Maybe the HiSense U8H would be a better option, it looks like it rates exactly the same as the Samsung QN90B QLED but is $400 cheaper if comparing the 55" HiSense to the 50" Samsung)
That's already put me on 3440... can I get a good CPU, RAM, PSU, Case, SDD, HDD, for 1560? Are there better and/or cheaper options I should consider for the GPU and display? All things being equal I would love to support AMD, maybe for the CPU? For the GPU it seems like I have no choice but NVIDIA.

8. Do you have any specific case preferences (ex: mITX/mATX/mid-towefull-tower sizes, styles, colours, window or not, LED lighting, etc.), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

I would probably prefer it to not be too huge, there is a chance I will be carting this thing to events to run AI deepface live video transformations of DJs, if that's something I mess around with and find to be both feasible and worth the effort.
A laptop might be better for that specific thing, but then the laptop GPUs have lower RAM, there are issues of TDP, and they're even more expensive. 5,300 for a 4090 16gb laptop and then I'd still want the Samsung QN90B QLED on top of that.

9. Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? Note: some post-secondary students can get Windows 10 for free.

Yes.
I've heard Windows 11 includes advertising... can I avoid that and use Windows 10? I'd also be happy to run Steam OS, maybe a dual boot. Except I'll need Windows, I assume, for a majority of the games and video / AI software I wish to run.

10. Will you be upgrading this PC in the future (ie: will you swap out better parts later on or will you build an entirely new tower later)? If so, when?

Given how long I remained content with my laptop, I would guess I might start swapping components in 4 to 5 years. Maybe even longer, given the insane requirements Stable Diffusion is putting on my GPU choice... I'd probably happily get a <$1,000 GPU if it wasn't for that.

11. Do you have a brand preference? (ex: AMD/Intel for CPUs, AMD/NVIDIA for video cards, etc)

NVIDIA is essential for the GPU. I have no other preferences, except to support AMD if their CPU option is roughly equal to or cheaper than the Intel option.

12. What are the specs of your old PC / laptop? Do you want to see if it can be upgraded instead? If so, paste its build from PCPartPicker here.

MSI GS70Q laptop with 970m and i7.

13. Extra info or particulars:

I think I've answered everything. I'm normally extremely frugal so the GPU and Display that I'm looking at is ... mildly upsetting. I would love to hear cheaper suggestions that are almost as good.

Price: 998 Retailer: Amazon.ca
I believe the price dropped on this model in past 24 hours. This is a new ATL. Appears to limited stock at some of these vendors
Rtings https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x90k
Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09R9RTQ92?th=1
BB https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/so … lsrc=aw.ds
Visions https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/catego … K9EALw_wcB

Price: 998 Retailer: Amazon.ca
I believe the price dropped on this model in past 24 hours. This is a new ATL. Appears to limited stock at some of these vendors
Rtings https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x90k
Amazon https://www.cdndeals.ca/bb-visions-sony-55-x90k-full-array-led-4k-tv-120hz-998-was-1200/
BB https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/so … lsrc=aw.ds
Visions https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/catego … K9EALw_wcB

I have a 7D that is finally showing its age, so I rented a R6 Mkii (and 1.2 50mm and EF adapter) to shot a stage show. I read places like here that say battery life is (relatively) terrible but like 600 shots per battery when not using the screen.
I can use the 7D batteries, but they have even less life, so I bought a spare.
I shot 7911 frames the first night and the rental battery just dropped to 50%. I charged it over night and shot 4800 the second night, with the rental battery was showing 75%.
How can the battery figures be so radically off?

In my country, a Gigabyte costs $533, and Samsung $433. According to the rtings website, Samsung is worse in all aspects, but it is also cheaper. Is it worth paying an extra hundred bucks for a gigabyte? I need gaming and working with lots of windows, I'm not a designer, the difference in color is not critical for me. Are there people with experience working on these monitors? Samsung lures with 165 Hz and 1000 curvature, but the gigabyte will be better in terms of screen specifications. Thanks for attention!

I have a problem playing 24p videos in the new mi box 2nd gen. Video is not smooth, every few seconds I can see like a little "jump" on movement and even in certain moments the image seems like when you play a game at very low fps. Looks like a memory problem? It´s not always happening. I don´t know.
I have an LG OLED C2 with Judder- Free 24p via 60p, real cinema is on. So i don´t think it´s judder or a configuration problem. I also try the rtings judder test, and it´s ok.
Anyone with this problem? Thanks for your attention.

Rtings says they are completely different tvs. But I see other people say they are the same. Does anyone know if they are the same or not?

So I just bought the non Xbox Version (PC/PS5) and I noticed the ANC is very bad. From what I read online and on Reddit, it seems everyone is complaining about the same issue, on both PS5 and Xbox variants.
However I just came across RTINGS reviews who actually say only the XBOX variant has ANC https://www.rtings.com/headphones/reviews/steelseries/arctis-nova-pro-wireless-for-xbox
And they say the PC PS5 version doesn't have ANC https://www.rtings.com/headphones/reviews/steelseries/arctis-pro-wireless
This is all very surprising to me, aren't the 2 variants supposed to have ANC?
As mentionned earlier, my PC PS5 variant has ANC, it's just crap.
Wondering if the Xbox Version has better ANC?

Hi guys. I bought myself a dell s2722dgm monitor. The rtings review says that it has an sRGB profile, but I can’t select it anywhere in the settings, only the usual RGB. what does it mean? where i can change it?

Hi guys. I bought myself a dell s2722dgm monitor. The rtings review says that it has an sRGB profile, but I can’t select it anywhere in the settings, only the usual RGB. what does it mean? where i can change it?

Hi everyone, I currently have the OnePlus buds pro and I have been looking for an upgrade. I don't like how they fall out of my ears after awhile and however they don't fall out completely I still need to push them back because the audio gets weak. Also the anc is really weak and not noticable after a couple times. However when I compared the two on rtings, the difference between the two seems really small. So my question to you is should I upgrade to the Bose earbuds or should I choose a completely different set of earbuds? Thanks in advance!

Who is more reliable when it comes to testing headphones - specifically ANC headphones? If you compare the results on the two different websites, you can see significantly different data in terms of noise-cancelling ability for the same headphones. Rather confusing for someone like me who doesn't work in the field/know that much about it all. My guess would have been Rtings, but then their No 1 recommended ANC headphones are the Sony XM4's (apparently better ANC then the new generation XM5's, which seems odd).

I was only familiar with the 90c and 95c then today this thing pops up on my radar on the samsung canada website. i assume it's some regional variant, costs $100 more than a 90c...anyone know what the difference is with this? samsung canada sells the 90c and the 92c. on the rtings review for the 90c they mention the 92c at the end for "other versions" but even they say they don't know what the difference is.
thanks.
edit: aha! after scouring the two product pages with a magnifying glass, i found two small difference. the 90c has "Micro Dimming Ultimate UHD Dimming" whereas 92c is listed as having "Micro DimmingUltimate UHD Dimming Pro." Also, the speakers on the 92c are 70w and the 90c are 60w. why they made this into an entirely different product i do not know. although i do know samsung is notorious for having regional differences in their products.

I'm planning to use the TV mainly for watching movies/shows and some sports (ice hockey, F1). I don't have a console to game on the TV but that may possibly change in the future.
The TV is for a home theater setup in my living room, which has a reasonable amount of light during the day (from a sliding door to the side of the TV, not facing it), but I can get blackout curtains in the future if needed. The light in the room can be controlled at night. The TV will be viewed from 11-12 feet away.
I'm upgrading from a 1080P 60" Samsung F8000 I bought in 2013, which has very noticeable flashlighting/glowing in the four corners of the screen when displaying dark content (it bugged me a bit at first but I learned to live with it over the years). Either of these TVs will be a massive upgrade in all aspects.
I've done research on both of the models in question. The X90K is larger, has better processing, higher brightness (?), better motion, better upscaling, but has some blooming (I've never seen this phenomenon so I don't know how much it would bug me). The B2 being OLED has better picture quality and true blacks, but is smaller and I saw in reviews that it can have some issues with judder and color gradients. According the the RTINGS TV size calculator, an 85" would work in my space.
What would you guys pick for my use case? Is OLED that good that it's worth paying $200 CAD more for a smaller size? Or is size king and I should go for the bigger X90K for more immersion and save $200 CAD? TIA!